This table is a followup to <a href="http://www.girlfromauntie.com/journal/index.php/2007/ease-over-decades/">this post</a>, and summarizes the measuring/pattern drafting instructions for set-in sleeves from a number of hand knitting design references. These instructions are not necessarily complete; for example, Righetti (1990) provides additional information and requires additional measurements for fitting special body types.
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<table border=1>
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<td><strong></strong></td>
<td><strong>Thomas (1938)</strong></td>
<td><strong>Duncan (1940/1970)</strong></td>
<td><strong>Elalouf (1982)</strong></td>
<td><strong>Vogue Knitting (1989)</strong></td>
<td><strong>Michelson/Davis (1989)</strong></td>
<td><strong>Righetti (1990)</strong></td>
<td><strong>Newton (1992)</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Cross-shoulder</strong></td>
<td>measure "across shoulder blades, but not across the shoulders"</td>
<td>measure "snugly" from small bone that marks tip of one shoulder to the other; if the measurement is too long, garment will look sloppy</td>
<td>take this measurement from the body, then decrease by 0.5 to 1.5 inches depending on how much the yarn will stretch</td>
<td>add your desired ease to the actual body measurement; set ease ranges are suggested for different fits</td>
<td>measure straight across back, between outside tip of shoulder bones; do not add ease</td>
<td>measure between the "bony shoulder tips" located between the rib cage and outside of the arms; add width to allow for shoulder pads if necessary (2 to 4 inches); <i>however</i>, for heavy arms, measure distance from between shoulder tips "across upper arm" (not illustrated)</td>
<td>should be close to actual measurement</td>
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<td><strong>Bust</strong></td>
<td>measured around fullest part of figure, "easy" (there is no discussion about adding ease)</td>
<td>measure fullest part, "eased"</td>
<td>"adapted to suit the style"</td>
<td>add your desired ease to the actual body measurement; set ease ranges are suggested for different fits</td>
<td>measure around fullest part of bust, add 2 to 3 inches of ease</td>
<td>measure around fullest part of bust; ease may be added to, or subtracted from, this measurement</td>
<td>a "classic" fit adds 4 to 6 inches of ease to body measurement</td>
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<tr>
<td><strong>Armscye depth</strong></td>
<td>back armscye depth is 5/12 back waist length; front armscye is (5/12 back waist) + (1/2 back waist + 1")(1/2 bust - 5/6 back waist)/(1/2 bust - 2/3 back waist)</td>
<td>depth is not measured; rather, entire (curved) armscye edge from armpit top of shoulder is measured with "no constriction"</td>
<td>this is a fixed value, to be adjusted to suit; e.g. for a chest size 36, the depth is 7.5 inches<br>if the garment is meant to be worn over something else, add 1 inch; if the garment is a coat, add 4 inches</td>
<td>measure from 1 inch below underarm to shoulder</td>
<td>measure from top of shoulder bone to 1 or 2 inches below where the arm joins the body; do not add extra for ease, but add extra to accommodate shoulder pads if using</td>
<td>measure the actual underarm depth from nape of neck to where arm joins body; add ease, otherwise the garment will be too tight (likely 1 to 1.5 inches, based on other instructions)</td>
<td>2 to 3 inches <em>less</em> than armscye depth for a dropped sleeve style, which is 8 to 10 inches</td>
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<tr>
<td><strong>Wrist</strong></td>
<td>measure around flat hand, including thumb</td>
<td>wrist measurement plus 1 inch</td>
<td>measure 2.5 inches above wrist, add 1 inch or more to measurement</td>
<td>measure just above hand, making sure that measurement fits over closed fist</td>
<td>wrist measurement plus 1 inch</td>
<td>find prominent wrist bones; take measurement 0.5 inch towards the elbow from the wrist bones (presumes that ribbing will be used at cuffs)</td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Bicep</strong></td>
<td>armscye perimeter less 2 inches (i.e., not measured from body, but computed from block pattern)</td>
<td>bicep measurement plus 2 inches</td>
<td>wrist measurement plus same amount of ease added to wrist</td>
<td>measurement depends on desired ease</td>
<td>measure around fullest part of upper arm; add 50 to 100% of the ease added to the bust measurement</td>
<td>measure around fullest part of upper arm; preferably, incorporate wearing ease when taking measurement (e.g., have wearer identify comfortable measurement by taking in and letting out measuring tape)</td>
<td>same amount of ease as for body; in total, should be approximately twice sleeve cap height plus 1 inch</td>
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<tr>
<td><strong>Sleeve cap height</strong></td>
<td>one-half armscye perimeter plus 0.25 inch</td>
<td>average cap height is 5.5 inches</td>
<td>constant value depending on size; for size 36, 3 inches less than armscye depth</td>
<td>height will vary according to fixed values previously calculated</td>
<td>will vary according to width of sleeve</td>
<td>measure/compute length of body back armscye edge, subtract 1.5 inches (allocated to final bind-off of sleeve cap) to determine sleeve cap height</td>
<td>approximately two-thirds of armscye depth for a classic fit; may be deeper for a narrower sleeve, shallower for wider sleeve</td>
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<tr>
<td><strong>Width of final sleeve cap bind-off</strong></td>
<td>not given: can infer from diagram that likely less than 2 inches</td>
<td>3 inches for adult (1940); once 3.5 inches wide, bind off stitches to leave a final 2 inches (1970)</td>
<td>whatever remains after working cap to desired height</td>
<td>2 to 3 inches for narrow caps, 3 to 5 inches for wider caps</td>
<td>will vary from style to style (e.g., pleated, gathered sleeves require additional width); for plain sleeve, between 3 to 5 inches; use 3 to 3.5 inches for women's small size</td>
<td>3 inches</td>
<td>4 to 6 inches</td>
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<tr>
<td><strong>Sleeve cap angle</strong></td>
<td>compound</td>
<td>simple (1940); compound (1970)</td>
<td>simple</td>
<td>compound (a sleeve cap "shape" is plotted on graph paper)</td>
<td>compound (plot on graph paper to have "domed bell shape")</td>
<td>compound ("bell-shaped curve")</td>
<td>compound; recommended regular decreases to within 1 to 1.5 inches of intended height, then gradual bind-offs until desired width and height achieved</td>
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<tr>
<td><strong>Sleeve length (bicep to wrist)</strong></td>
<td>measure from armpit to wristbone</td>
<td>measure from armpit to wrist, less 1 inch</td>
<td>measure from 2 inches below armpit to wrist -- may wish to add 0.5 to 1.5 inches based on preference</td>
<td>measure from wrist to underarm</td>
<td>measure from 1 to 2 inches from where arm joins body to wrist, with elbow slightly bent</td>
<td>measurement will depend on style; start where arm joins body to wrist, but drop down the same number of inches added to armscye depth</td>
<td>check this length by comparing sleeve pattern to half-wingspan measurement (center back to wrist measurement)</td>
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<tr>
<td><strong>Armscye bind-off/decrease</strong></td>
<td>drawn freehand: no instruction regarding the slope</td>
<td>bind off half of the stitches to be decreased, then 1 stitch every other row</td>
<td>bind off one inch, then decrease 1 stitch every other row</td>
<td>bind off half of the stitches to be decreased, then 1 stitch every other row (or as for Elalouf)</td>
<td>bind off half of the stitches to be decreased, then 1 stitch every other row</td>
<td>bind off may be as wide as 2.5 inches per side on front or back; it is "customary" (but not mandatory) to bind off 1 inch initially, and to work all decreases within the first 1.5 inches of the armscye</td>
<td>bind off half of the stitches to be decreased, then decrease every other row for medium-heavy yarns, every other RS row (i.e., every fourth row) for lightweight yarns</td>
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<tr>
<td><strong>Sleeve cap initial bind-off/decrease</strong></td>
<td>drawn freehand: no instruction regarding the slope</td>
<td>bind off the same amount of stitches as for underarm, then decrease 1 stitch every other row</td>
<td>bind off one inch, then decrease at an even rate until desired cap height is reached</td>
<td>same bind-off as for body</td>
<td>same bind-off as for body</td>
<td>same bind-off as for body</td>
<td>same bind-off as for body</td>
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</table>